Formal Wear: Adjusting the Fit

I'm so excited about this formal wear series, inspired by my experience sewing my sister's prom dress! Check it out, here, if you haven't seen it yet. Please let me know if you have any special requests. :)

Ah, you're in the final stages, you just successfully inserted a zipper you never want to lay hands on again, and despite all your careful measuring and practice runs....it doesn't fit quite right. Well, looks like you're going to have to start over! KIDDING! You can fix it, don't panic!

Now, it's easier to fix something that's too large than too small, but I will do my best to help.

Too Small:
1. Restitch all the seams in the area that is too small as close to the edge of the seam allowance as you can get, then rip out the original seam. This can give you up to an inch and a half depending on how big your seam allowance was.  
2. Rip out the side seams and add in additional fabric. This isn't the most attractive option, but you may be able to use contrasting fabric to make it look like a cool color blocking. You can also do this on a back or front seam and add a faux placket to hide the extra fabric added. 
3. Allow it to "ride down with wear" (bonus points: name that quote!) On one of my favorite comedic TV shows, the employees of this department store used this phrase, or variations of it, to convince customers to buy their sub-par merchandise. In one of my favorite episodes, one of the characters pushes his knee into an armhole that is too tight to pop a few stitch and make it more comfortable for the customer. The result on TV wasn't as effective, but it's actually not a bad idea. I've done it on a few of my own things that are just a tad too tight. Be cautious though, and don't pop too many stitches! 

Too Large: 
1. Take it in. The easiest way to do this is to put on the garment inside out, pin where you want a tighter seam, take it off and sew. Easy! I would suggest doing both sides as equally as possible to avoid lopsided-ness. 
2. Increase the size of darts or tucks...or add in new darts/tucks altogehter. 
3. Belt it. This is kind of the cheater way, but a good temporary fix if you don't anticipate staying the size you are, of ir you don't have time to sew. 

Too Droopy:
I have this problem in the neckline all the time! I usually just tighten the straps/sleeves (place on inside out, pin, sew) or add a few extra darts in the top of the neckline on the back of the garment. Sometimes it's not really droopy, just low cut, so I add an extra button or only wear it with a cami.

Too Long:
Trim it when you hem it. If you're hemming by yourself, use a similar garment you already like the length of to hem the new one. When people ask me to hem pants for them, I ask them to also give me a pair they like. Hold it up, measure, and we're good to go. If you're really in a hurry, go for a casual rolled look, or use iron on hem tape. (Which my mom swears by!)

Too Short:
Again, it's harder to add than take away but I'll try and help. 
1. Add an extra panel on the bottom. You can add a contrast color to make it look intentional or another panel of the same fabric. A trim, such as lace, is also a good option.
2. If you don't already have one, add a waist. Take the dress apart in the area where the bodice and skirt connect and add an additional panel. Again, contrast the colors or match it, your choice. 
3. Rethink the final look. Maybe consider wearing shorter heels, shorten it from a maxi length to a cocktail length, or add tights/leggings. For sleeves consider going from long sleeve to three quarter, three quarter, to cap, cap to strap, etc. If it's pants go from long to cropped, cropped to capri, capri to Bermuda, or Bermuda to shorty. Sometimes you can also lop off a bunch of fabric and just wear it as a top instead of a dress, or wear it as a bathing suit cover up where it's more socially acceptable for it to be too short. 
4. Use my awesome alteration tips to pass it down to someone smaller.    :D

What other tips do you have? Let us know what works, it's never fun to be stuck in a situation like this! 

~Farm Girl Teacher