So, you've gotten almost all of the main portions of the dress done, and now you're on to the last few steps....I've gotten so many emails about this topic, hopefully I can shed some light...
Please note: I have always used invisible zippers and rarely branch out from this. I know not everyone is fan of this style of zipper, but I have never had one split, even under serious strain, and I don't find them more difficult to insert. This method will work on a traditional zipper and will hide it similar to the way an invisible one his hidden. If you want the zipper to be exposed I would suggest inserting it the traditional way. Also, I did come up with this on my own, but someone else out there probably invented it first, I'm not claiming to be too special. :D
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| The only shot I have pre-zipper insertion. I actually wound up redoing the bodice after realizing there was about a 6 inch are that was too small. :( Luckily I caught it before inserting the zipper and version #2 looked better anyway. |
What makes your technique special?
Let me tell you my story first. You guys know I love to talk, so I apologize in advance if I drag on a bit. ;) I love showing off my handmade clothes, but when I say to friends, "Thanks, I made this!" the first thing they do (especially fellow seamstresses!) is check the zipper. Sound funny? lol I do it to other people too. It's one of the more complicated pieces of a garment and speaks to your talents and attention to detail. It was also one of the things I struggled with constantly before developing the technique I'm going to share with you. Believe it or not, I hated inserting zippers. I would get almost all the way done with something and set it aside for weeks because I didn't want to ruin it attempting to put in a zipper. Usually it wound up in the hands of my mother or grandmother six months later, and while it looked great, I was also just a tad bit ashamed that I had chickened out, once again. I actually had NIGHTMARES about inserting zippers. Dramatic? Yes, so I eventually decided I was going to conquer my fears the summer of 2013! (I know, only a year ago! See, I'm not a zipper god, you can do it too!) I wanted to make new clothes to begin my first year of teaching since my wardrobe had dwindled to shorts/jeans paired with a t-shirt during my college years, but that also meant mastering the zipper. I sort of developed this technique as a 'gateway' if you will, into legit zipper insertion. My mother did NOT teach me this....and thought it was a little ridiculous since it is extra work...BUT it also allowed me to successfully insert zippers for the first time, ever! I have never had to totally rip out a zipper using this method! (I do often make minor adjustments, more on that later!) I did this technique for a long time, until slowly I stopped doing it as much. My confidence grew, and I slowly weaned myself off this method and did it the 'legit' way without fear! That being said, I do occasionally revert back if I'm using expensive fabric, inserting into many layers of fabric, or if my fear gets the better of me...all three of course applied to Miranda's prom dress. :)
Should I practice first?
Is this your absolute first time inserting a hem? Probably. Done it before, but not well? Maybe. If you already made a toile (tutorial, here) it's not a bad idea to also buy a cheap zipper of the correct size to practice. You may also want to keep a cheap zipper on hand that you can rip out and practice inserting on different toiles, types of fabric, etc. I have a zipper I use specifically for this purpose. I bought it on sale only to realize it doesn't zip smoothly so I saved it and use it on rough drafts and practice. Most of the time, inserting a practice zipper allows me to better check the fit, and sometimes I use it to practice sewing a zipper to a specific type of fabric. (With thicker fabric, like denim or leather, it's important to check that your needle is strong enough to handle all of the layers)
If this is your first one I recommend practicing on a skirt. The zipper is usually shorter (7-9 inches) and you don't feel as though you've put as many hours of work into a skirt. I also recommend that you don't get too attached to the skirt....you know, just in case. :D
When do I insert the zipper?
I get this question a lot! I don't read written patterns nearly as much a I probably should, either because I've dramatically altered the pattern, or because I can easily see how to construct the pieces without instructions. I'm pretty sure most patterns will say to insert the zipper, then the hem as the last two steps, without mentioning how to adjust fit.
Here's what I do...I complete everything except the zipper/hem. I try the garment on the actual person (don't rely on the dress form!) to see that it mostly fits. I make minor adjustments as needed before inserting the zipper. Often, this means adjusting the straps/sleeves because the neckline is hanging too low. I also make sure that it's not too small, there's no point in doing a zipper if it's too small to begin with, it's much better to insert it knowing it's a bit too big than to insert it hoping that will somehow add a few inches. (and yes, I have done that, doesn't work!) After the zipper has been inserted, I go back and take it in where I need to. (I will explain how to adjust fit in the next post.) I always wait and do the hem last because making sure it fits well on top, and has a working zipper, allows you to better adjust the length of the hem, and means you're more likely to get a straight hem.
Where do I insert the zipper?
The pattern should tell you, it's almost always in the back seam or in the side seam. Back is more common, but if the pattern doesn't have a back seam, or has a special back detail, it will go in the side. (Both of these applied to Miranda's.) The zipper will hide a bit better in the side seam and is easier to zip, but depending on the neckline/sleeve styles it can also be a tad more challenging to wriggle into. Generally speaking, I follow the pattern, unless I've made major changes and need to move the zipper. For skirts, I almost always put the zipper on the side. It rarely changes the appearance of the skirt and makes it easier to dress.
Tutorial:
Okay, I'll quit babbling now and get to the actual tutorial. For my seasoned veterans I will repeat, this is a bit more work than the 'traditional' way, however I feel that in the long run it saved me time when I was learning to insert zippers because the 'traditional' way also meant ripping it out three times. Also, the pictures I took of me doing this on the actual prom dress were lost when my SD card was damaged so I re-shot them on a dress I'm working on now. The bottom layer is a plain white cotton and it has a sheer and somewhat delicate, yet bulky, overlay.
Materials:
- Matching zipper (skirts/pants are usually 7-9 inches, dresses are around 22)
- Garment
- Strong, matching thread. (I ditched the silky thread I used on everything else in lieu of a more sturdy thread for the zipper.)
- Any contrasting thread.
- Zipper foot--this is really not optional, a regular presser foot will only give you a headache and an ugly zipper, if you don't already have one, invest! (It will be worth it, I promise!) If you're insistent on using the regular foot, adjust the needle position so it is either at the far left or far right, as needed, and proceed with caution...I warned you!
-Iron/ironing board
-Starch
-Seam Ripper, razor, small scissors, etc.
Steps:
1. If you haven't already, sew up the seam until you get to where the bottom of where the zipper will be, for many patterns a dot will indicate where to stop.
2. Switch to the contrasting thread and machine sew a basting stitch the rest of the way, WHERE THE ZIPPER WILL GO. I know this is backwards, you will no longer have an opening in your garment, and this is okay for now. Hand basting will not work, set your machine's stitch length to the longest possible and use a contrast thread, you'll rip it out anyway! (Trust me, it will work out in the end!)
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| Left=Basting, Right=Regular |
3. Iron seams out, I seriously recommend starching as well. You want really sharp seams, especially in the area that will hold the zipper. It will look cleaner and be easier to rip out the basting.
4. With the garment inside out, pin the closed zipper face down over the basting area. The seam you created with the contrast thread will provide a sharp guide, you want the teeth of the zipper directly over this seam. The straighter you do this, the better. I also think it's easier to pin down only one side and pin as flat as possible.
PLEASE NOTE: You will not be opening the zipper until the very end, in order to avoid weird stitching around the zipper pull, I start about an inch below that, when I'm completely finished, I will go back with the zipper open and fix that area.
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| Check and double check alignment now! |
CAUTION: Because you don't have an opening of a decent size in the dress anymore, be extra cautious that you don't accidentally sew through another part of the dress as well, you don't want a sleeve to get caught up into the zipper! (But if you do, don't panic, rip out that section of stitching and redo it.)
6. Remove all the pins (your new seam will hold the zipper in place) and stitch top to bottom down that side of the zipper, needle closest to teeth. When you get to the bottom go back and forth over the teeth a few times to secure. Go slow, this is where you're most likely to break a needle.
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| The left side is a little wonky, luckily this fabric hides it well. |
7. Now the zipper is in, but you still don't have an opening so, using a razor, small scissors, or a seam ripper, rip out the contrasting basting stitch as you unzip and double check the zipper's functionality and appearance.
8. Make minor adjustments to the zipper itself as needed. I finish the area where the pull was, and occasionally I rip out an inch or two where the teeth weren't lined up well and touch up that area. I also double check that the seam that goes up to the bottom of the zipper looks good. Sometimes there's still basting stitches down there where the regular seam didn't go high enough and I restitch it to avoid seam splitting down the road. Add a button or hook/loop to the top and, voila!
Congrats! You just inserted a zipper and you still have all the hair on your head! :) If that doesn't deserve a pat on the back, I don't know what does! :D
Come back soon and I'll help you adjust the fit and throw in a hem!
~Farm Girl Teacher
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