Formal Wear: Inserting Boning

I'm so excited about this formal wear series, inspired by my experience sewing my sister's prom dress! Check it out, here, if you haven't seen it yet. Please let me know if you have any special requests. :) 
 
What is boning?
Boning refers to the stiff pieces of material typically found inside a corset or a bodice. It gives the material a stiffer structure and provides a more flattering shape of the body. Originally, boning was made from ivory, whale bone, or even wood, however as technology has improved, people began using steel and then plastic. The boning is encased in a material tube, usually cotton or muslin. You'll know you need to use it if it's mentioned in the notions section of your pattern. It is purchased by the yard and typically attached to the lining of the garment. You may also find boning used in other ways in costume patterns as these may have structural features that require the extra support.

***Please note, while both steel and plastic boning are used today, this tutorial is a guide to plastic, which is more commonly used in basic bodices. Steel boning is typically used for very structured corsets, especially those that will be tight-laced, modifying the body shape. 

But do I really have to?
I know it's tempting to skip steps or cut corners, especially in a large project, but I would typically not recommend skipping this particular part. Boning is structurally important to the garment. Often it helps to hold up the bodice, especially if the bodice is strapless or not well supported by another structure such as a sleeve or a collar.  You might could get away with a stiff, fusible interfacing, but I really suggest using the boning.

General Tips:

1. Boning is stored in a coil, if you found that your boning is too tightly wound, hold it in the steam from a boiling pot of water. This will help loosen the plastic a bit. You can also hang it from something with a small weight on the other end, or press it between too heavy books.

2. Use a metal nail file and toenail clippers to file down any sharp edges. These edges can not only be uncomfortable to the wearer, but they can also poke through the fabric and out of the garment entirely!

3. A zipper foot can be helpful when inserting boning, but it's not truly necessary. I've done it with both and never had a problem.

How to insert boning:
Please Note: Typically you would use matching thread, I am using a contrast color so it will appear on camera.

1. If you haven't already, mark on your bodice where the boning will go. This should be indicated on your pattern. If you're making the creative decision to add boning that's not required in the pattern, you'll probably want to add it on the outer curves of the bust (not quite mid-boob, not quite armpit) and in the back about halfway between the spine/armpit.

2. Cut the boning (fabric and plastic) to the required length. Remove the plastic from the tube and cut just the plastic half an inch to three quarters of an inch shorter. File down any sharp edges with a metal nail file. Taking off the sharp corners will keep the boning from stabbing the wearer, and more importantly, from poking a hole in the fabric of your garment. :)

3. Pin the tube to the fabric and stitch a straight stitch as close to the edge as possible on each of the long sides of the tube. I use a zipper foot to do this as it allows me to get close to the edge, however I've also used a regular foot with no problem.

4. Stitch the top of the tube closed, and insert the boning through the bottom of the tube.

5. With the boning inside, stitch the bottom of the tube closed. You may find you need to trim the plastic more, that's fine.

Voila! You're done! See, that wasn't as hard as you thought, was it? :)

You know what I love about sewing during the summer? My work area looks out over a BEAUTIFUL garden my mom made last year. (The photo doesn't do it justice!) It's hard to get a shot of it, but she was out there today working near the beautiful rosebush by the front door. :) I can't tell you how much I love summertime!

Happy Memorial Day
Hope you enjoyed!

~Farm Girl Teacher